I was in New Delhi for just over a week at the beginning of June, visiting after a period of 3 years, and so many things caught my attention that I thought I’d do a round up of my observations, just like I did 10 years ago.
Systems implemented and working. The impact may not be visible to a first time visitor or someone living through it. Immigration at the airport didn’t need me to fill in a disembarkation card anymore. As a citizen with a machine readable passport, I was ‘in the system’ already. The bank was virtually empty. I’d never seen it so desolate until I noticed this e-Lounge next door. My request for a debit card was handled instantly and the card handed over. Yes, I can use it for internet payments too. Ooh, I’m now part of the Great Indian E-commerce boom.
So, Sanjay tells me all about ‘those purchases you make and then they send it to your house and you can use Paytm’ – e-commerce, without ever once using the world Internet, e-commerce or speaking in English. His own commitments (the last baby turned out to be twin girls) keep him from splurging on a smartphone but he keeps a SIM with his Whatsapp and Facebook accounts to use on his friend’s phones. Sanjay is my go to “aam aadmi” or representative of the emerging Indian middle class, in the classical sense. He’s a blue collar worker in maintenance, with a motorcycle, consumer electronics and a daughter in private English medium schooling. He only has vocational training and high school equivalency certificates.
This startup received 9 million dollars in funding and splashed out with billboards in key neighbourhoods. Brother in law who’s head of McCann Erickson in India tells me its the classifieds they use. And yes, this ad shows one of the unique issues of going online in India.
Gentrification is everywhere. Even in the jhuggi-jhopdis. People’s clothes are brightly coloured and modern and cheap. I bought two excellent t-shirts for Rs 150 each ~ 2 euros and some odd cents, at least 40% cheaper than similar street vendor prices in ye olde shopping mecca of Singapore. I mean, branded coconut water kiosks, really?
The Metro is bringing mobility on a scale that’s changing the landscape of the city. Another 3 years and where will we be? What struck me was even with the worst heat wave in years, the power went off only once, that too for a couple of hours, something that had never happened before. Summer is always the time for load-shedding due to the higher consumption of air conditioning and other electricals.
And if you have money, its app-driven public transportation for you. Ola is what everyone talks about. Apps are becoming commonplace. 10 years ago, when I was first told to keep an eye on the mobile phone and way it would change things, in everyday life, was this the future we’d envisioned for ourselves?
The informal sector is still the provider of income and employment for the majority and the mindset of scarcity means the culture of repair, re-use, re-purpose and resell hasn’t gone anywhere. Even if its been glitzed up with spit and polish.
Its never going to be “normal” or “conventional” but its definitely signs of social and economic development. India has come of age.